Cavy Care

Guinea pigs are delightful animals. Although skittish at first, as prey animals often are, they generously give affection for a small amount of care.

Natural Environment

Most people know them as guinea pigs although they are also often called cavies (Cavy porcellus). Cavies are rodents native to South America, where they may still exist in the wild today in a few areas, and where domestication first started; not so much as a pet but rather as a food source. Cavies still form a substantial part of the Andean culture’s diet today.

Guinea pigs in the wild live on grassy plains and occupy an ecological niche similar to that of the cow. They move together in groups (herds) eating grass or whatever other plants they come across. The grass is long and the animals are being protected from predators by overhanging stems. They don’t burrow for themselves but instead use abandoned burrows from other animals. Young cavies are not born in the safety of a burrow but out in the open. They are born fully furred with their eyes open and within two days after being born they are eating the same food as their parents.

They tend to be most active during dawn and dusk, when it is harder for predators to spot them. If startled they can run for cover with surprising speed. Domestic animals have developed a different rhythm, and have longer periods of activity followed by short periods of sleep in between. Activity is scattered randomly over the 24 hours of the day.

Guinea pigs are probably the smallest grass-eating mammals. Grass digestion requires a special digestive system: whereas most grass-eating mammals are quite large and have a long digestive tract, guinea pigs use a more unusual method: they practice coprophagy, the eating of one’s own feces. They produce special soft pellets which contain the B vitamins and bacteria required for proper digestion. They share this behaviour with for example rabbits. The feces are basically processed, fermented grass.

Appearance

Modern cavies come in a multitude of colors such as white, black, red, gold, buff (biscuit color), cream, lilac, slate, chocolate and saffron. A ‘self’ is any plain solid color with matching colored pigment. The coat types have four main variations:

• Shorthair – covering a range of colours, markings and crests.
• Coarse-coats – the coat stands away from the body, such as the Rex and Teddy. Unlike a rex cat, the coat is wiry. These look a little like a Koala, with hair much like steel wool. Another example is the Abyssinian. Again, unlike an Abyssinian cat, the cavy coat has a number of rosette-like crests in a number of patterns. Sometimes described as toilet brush but more often called ‘whirligigs’ by breeders.
• Longhairs – a long coat, which can grow about one inch per month.
• Satin – the coat has a shiny appearance due to hollow hair follicles.

In addition to these coat types, there are additional groups that help describe the variations in the coat. These are:

• Crested – a small crest is evident on the head.
• Ticked – the hair has a base colour with silver tips at the ends of the hair.
• Marked/party – a patterned coat with more than one color.

These coat types may be combined with any of the colors.

Temperament

As with all rodents, temperament largely depends on how the animal is handled. Those that are well-handled are more inclined to be placid. Infrequently handled cavies are more skittish. As a prey animal that is predisposed to worry about attach from above, guinea pigs can be jumpy when you reach for them and pick them up, but they usually settle down quickly after that. They are curious and will often move around in your lap or arms to check things out, and nipple gently on your skin and clothes. Guinea pigs use a variety of sounds to communicate with each other, and will “talk” to you, too, once it has gotten to know you and bonded with you.

Social Animals

Guinea pigs are social animals that in the wild live in extended family groups which consist of sows (females), a boar (male), and the young. Unlike similar rodents, Guinea pigs mate for life in the same pair bond. Since they are genetically “programmed” to live together with others of their own species they should generally be kept at least two together in a cage. You can make an exception and still keep them happy if you spend a lot of time every day with your little friend. Guinea pig groups have a rank system that they learn to fit into from they are babies, and crowded guinea pigs may fight with each other, so it is important that they have enough room for each to have some personal space when the need arises. Once in a while you will meet a pig that doesn’t like to share its cage with other animals and then we have to respect that, too. A boar that is “hormonal” will of course not appreciate being housed with rival males, either, but will often be okay after a week or two when his hormone levels have gone down, and if the other male is compatible in age and personality. Two males can be best buddies just as easily as two females, once they have gotten to know each other.

Keep pigs of the same gender together if you have them as pets. Guinea pig babies are cute but being pregnant is quite a health hazard and is best done by a knowledgeable breeder. It will also cut down on your pig’s life expectancy. Just as important is the question of how to get rid of the babies. Placing them with irresponsible or random people is not the answer. Few pet owners are aware that baby guinea pigs may be able to breed when they are only 3-5 weeks old thus breed with their own mother, father or siblings if not separated in time.

Although some rabbits and cavies socialise well together, it is important not to keep them in the same cage. Their individual diets and difference in size make them incompatible house mates, and rabbits can get quite hard on cavies.

Communication

Guinea pigs will communicate with squeaks or whistles, showing distress or contentment according to the volume. They will give a “purr” or a vibration of the whole body when they like something, such as being petted. When they are excited about something they may do what is called “popcorning” which is when they jump around in all directions like a bronco in a rodeo. When settling disputes with other guinea pigs they often clap their teeth and make a low, rumbling sound while walking slowly on stiff legs.

Home Sweet Home

The proper home for your guinea pig is very important. The minimum cage size is 18×14 and 16 inches high, but since your guinea pig will get most of its exercise in its cage, it is recommended that you provide a large, spacious cage for his home. The best cage is at least 3 feet by 2 feet for two or three animals. It should have a solid bottom, not a wire mesh one; guinea pigs can hurt their feet on wire. A bottom with a high edge helps keep the bedding from falling out but also lowers air circulation. Proper ventilation is required but avoid drafts since they are susceptible to respiratory infections. A temperature range of F 65 to 70 degrees is best. Cavies do not lose heat by sweating. As with most small animals they should not be placed where the sun can shine straight on them through a window; indirect natural light is best. If you have trouble keeping their area cool enough in the summer, place a bottle of frozen water in the cage. Guinea pigs like to be able to watch the daily activities of the household but be far enough off the floor to avoid being stressed by the traffic of people and other pets.

The cage should preferably have a few things for the guinea pig to climb on and hide in. Some fun things are: Wooden boxes, shoeboxes, plain wicker baskets (not treated with dyes, chemicals, or glues) and empty oatmeal containers, but remember that guinea pigs can rarely be potty trained and will soil the area they rest in, thus requiring that frequently change the boxes/baskets. A shelter without a bottom is often best so the pig sits straight on the bedding. A shelter with a fairly flat roof offers extra space for the pig to sit and watch and to jump up and down (good exercise). A large, bendable log shelter gives you many options.

Do not use cedar shavings in your guinea pigs cage. Cedar shavings may cause liver disease and respiratory problems in guinea pigs, and even though the issue is far from settled/proven, there is no reason to run the risk.

Pine shavings is one of the most effective beddings at a good price, and most pigs do well on it, though it can cause skin problems in a minority of pigs because of the oils. Fir shavings are also good. There are several good kinds of oil-free, nature-friendly commercial beddings available from pet stores if you want to go that extra step. Look for a material that is fine enough to be absorbent but large enough not to block nasal or rectal passages (thus shavings vs. sawdust). Stay away from using paper since it interacts negatively with guinea pig pee to produce a foul odor, though some of the new recycled paper products may have been treated to avoid the problem. A good way to set up your cage is to line the bottom with wood pellets or a cat litter that does not contain paper, clay, oils or chemicals that can harm a guinea pig, then add the softer bedding, hay, fun toys, and houses. (Note: The wood pellets often contain cedar but since they are at the bottom of the cage this doesn’t affect the pigs, and most breeders prefer these over other products.)

Housekeeping

You should clean your guinea pig’s cage 1-2 times a week. Guinea pigs do not require any shots from the veterinarian (since none are available), so the only way to keep them healthy is to keep their cage clean. Any build up of feces or urine can cause infections inside your guinea pig. Cleaning the cage only takes a few minutes, but it is extremely important for your pig’s health. Remove any uneaten fresh food as soon as you see the pig is not interested. Molded food can be harmful, even deadly, to a guinea pig. Occasionally clean your cage with bleach to disinfect it but be sure to rinse well.

Dinner is served

Nutrition is very important for your guinea pig. Guinea pigs cannot produce their own vitamin C, so it is vital that vitamin C is supplemented in their pellets/diet. Prepared pellets should be available at all times. Mixed grains are a good addition in smaller amounts.

One way to incorporate the proper levels of vitamin C in their diet is to offer fresh fruits and vegetables every day or add the vitamin to fresh produce that you know your guinea pig will eat. Contrary to popular belief, guinea pig food will not necessarily provide all the vitamin C that your pig requires because the vitamin C in the pellets evaporates. Check for a “Best If Used By” date to ensure quality. Young, ill, nursing and pregnant animals require extra vitamin C. You can also add vitamin C to the water unless it causes your guinea pig to drink less.

The feed dish should be heavy or attached to the side of the cage so that it cannot be tipped over. The edge needs to be smooth.

Vegetables and fruits that are good sources of vitamin C are (in descending order): Red pepper, turnip greens, mustard greens, dandelion greens, green pepper, kale, Brussels sprouts, parsley, collard greens, guavas, broccoli leaves, cauliflower (incl. leaves), broccoli florets, tomato, asparagus, raspberries, rutabaga, cabbage, and oranges with the peel. Also peas, spring greens, spinach, asparagus, cantaloupe, beet greens, and young clover are good, and of course fresh, clean, pesticide-free, roadside pollution-free grass. (You can find more on the Internet.)

Some other good treats to offer your guinea pig are (not necessarily high in vitamin C): Coarse cut oatmeal (from health food store), bananas, apples and pears (no seeds because they contain arsenic), carrots (with or without tops), corn silks and husks, runner beans, pumpkin, turnip, parsnip, celery, sweet corn, cucumber, tomato, chickweed, dried apricots, peach, grapes, raisins, strawberries, watermelon, papaya, mango, kiwi fruit, pineapple, and blueberries. You can also purchase special treats with added C vitamin but most commercial guinea pig snacks are too high in fat and should be given very sparingly. You can make your own treats by making ice cubes of natural fruit juice, and you can add little pieces of fruit and vegetable, or simply freeze berries or bits of fruit high in water content. You can also soak chunks of whole-grain bread in water or juice and freeze them. Serve frozen treats a little at a time in a small crock and remove the left-overs after about an hour to avoid a mess. Frozen treats are especially useful in the summer.

Twigs and branches from fruit trees are great for your pig to wear its teeth on as long as they are pesticide-free and free from fungus, mildew or other disease. Dry crusts of bread (especially whole-grain bread) can provide a good workout, too.

DO NOT FEED

• Iceberg lettuce (will cause diarrhea)
• Potato skins (can be poisonous)
• Raw potato (can be poisonous)
• Onion (toxic)
• Garlic
• Rabbit/hamster food (not appropriate vitamin distribution and may contain antibiotics toxic to G.P.s) except brands
• recommended by breeders.
• Dairy (incl. yogurt drops)
• Tomato leaves (can be poisonous)
• Hot peppers (can be poisonous)
• Mushrooms (can be poisonous)
• Rhubarb (can be poisonous)
• Avocado (can be poisonous)
• White bread (too fattening)
• Nuts, some say (too rich)
• Plants from the garden you are not sure of.
• Wood you are not sure of.

Water

Guinea pigs need access to clean water at any time. Use a water bottle attached to the side of the cage since they will quickly tip or soil water in a crock. Change the water every day and clean the bottles frequently with a mix of water and vinegar and, when they need something stronger, water with bleach.

Hay is for Horses…and also for Guinea Pigs

Hay is great for your guinea pig. Your pig can have grass hay (Timothy or orchard) daily unless it is too skinny, in which case it needs something with more protein. A hay rack will keep the hay from getting soiled and a hay/treat ball hung so the pig has to reach for it provides extra enrichment and exercise. Piggies also like to play and hide in hay. Experiment to find out what works best for your pig or alternate for some extra enrichment. Grass hay will strengthen your pig’s digestive system and keep its entire body running smoothly. Feed only grass hay, generally. Alfalfa has a high fat and protein content and is only suitable for young, growing, sick, skinny and pregnant piggies and as an occasional treat for adults. Some pet stores carry oat and barley hay mixes, prairie hay or other less rich dried grasses that are appropriate and can provide some variety. You pig may also enjoy hay or alfalfa cubes. Since pellets contain alfalfa, you can cut back on the fat/protein intake by making the hay permanently available.

Pedicures and Dentistry

Guinea pig’s teeth grow continuously throughout their life. They cannot grind down their teeth naturally in captivity, so a hardwood branch or block of wood should be placed in the cage for them to chew on. The best kind of woods are: Oak, cherry wood, or apple wood. Branches seem to be more interesting than blocks of wood, however.

Guinea pigs cannot keep their nails trimmed either, and if they grow too long the nails will curl and your pig will have a hard time walking or even develop sores. Nails should be clipped every two to three week. This can be done with regular people nail clippers or cat clippers. Make sure you don’t cut into the quick. Placing a brick in the cage for the guinea pigs to walk on provides some filing of the nails.

Health

Guinea pigs cannot pass any diseases to humans, but we can give them our colds, so if you have a cold, don’t breathe on your pet, and make sure to wash your hands before handling it.

A healthy guinea pig has a good appetite, a firm body, a clean shiny coat, clean ears, and small, firm pellet shapeddroppings. It is alert, inquisitive and responsive and it moves around in its cage. If you see discharge from its nose, its mouth is dry or slobbering, its front teeth overlap and/or it looks listless, contact your vet.

Cavies will average four to five years of age but have been known to live as long as 11.

You can bathe your animal every few months with a mild shampoo to keep it clean and keep down odor.. Many guinea pigs grow to love their bath and are capable swimmers.

Just for Fun

Guinea pigs can be quite playful and some really like toys. Just consider the materials and make sure it is safe when your pig chews on it. Cat toys of hard plastic can be good. A metal string attached to the top of the cages with a metal bell at the bottom is often popular. Attach other things in between such as wood chews with holes in them, treats that are shaped as rings and whatever your imagination can come up with. Don’t hang all the fun stuff at one time but rotate it for better enrichment. You can even serve fruit and vegetable pieces that way.

You can build an outside pen that is safely enclosed on all sides. One example is three rectangular wood frame and mesh panels put together on two wooden mesh covered triangles. Place a door in the middle of one of the panels. This pen can be moved around to follow shade and fresh grass. You can also build a bigger, square pen with a top opening or one big enough to step into by a door, if you want a more spacious permanent structure.

For inside fun you can use a commercial small animal pen or build L, T and X shaped dividers to make mazes of and maybe incorporate obstacles like bridges (a flat A) and small see-saws. Motivate your pig with some fresh produce.

A good summer treat for your pigs is ice cubes with fresh fruit and some fruit juice. Serve in a ceramic crock or similar to avoid a mess in the cage as the cube melts, and take it out when the pigs are no longer interested so it doesn’t spoil.

Saving money

If you want to save money on your guinea pigs equipment because you have several animals or just can’t afford a lot of things, do not do so by buying a smaller cage. There are other ways to make your pet more affordable. You can by in bulk and mail order. Don’t buy lots of food and let it get old, though, but maybe you can share with other guinea pig owners. Some of the products that the pet stores sell for guinea pigs for good money are similar to those you find in farm supply stores for horses. Talk with an experience guinea pig person to find out what you can safely substitute.

There are different ways to make cages yourself. Farm supply or home improvement stores may have what you need for tray, frame and wire. You can also use shelving cube parts and coroplast . You can make a feed dish out of a tuna can (make sure the edge is smooth) nailed to a block of wood or with two holes drilled in the side and attached to the cage wire. A cheap cage bird feeder that attaches to the side can also be used. For a hutch you can use a plastic stacking bin as found in a storage & organization department. You can use smallish cardboard boxes when you have them, if they are

free from tape, staples and other things that can make guinea pigs sick, since they will chew on it. They will need frequent replacement. Don’t forget your local thrift stores for pots, toys etc.